FI-PI-LI highway: a journey through landscapes, culture, and fine wines in the heart of Tuscany
Driving on the Florence–Pisa–Livorno highway, better known as FI-PI-LI, is not just a fast way to get between some of the most important cities in Tuscany; it is actually a route that cuts through the beating heart of the region, where culture, landscape, and culinary traditions merge into a truly Tuscan experience.
Between Ginestra Fiorentina and Empoli
The FI-PI-LI, in this stretch, winds through a hilly landscape that offers glimpses of rare beauty: orderly rows of vines, centuries-old olive groves, and medieval villages perched on the heights, guardians of ancient stories and an agricultural heritage that is still vibrant today. In this area, wine is not just a product but an element of identity.
Exiting at Ginestra Fiorentina, the curtain rises on one of the most captivating wine regions of central Tuscany. The area between Empoli, Vinci, and Cerreto Guidi, up to the gates of the province of Pisa, is dotted with farms and wineries that passionately cultivate both native and international grape varieties, producing wines of great expressiveness.
Empoli and surroundings: the productive heart
Empoli, known for its history linked to glass and ceramics, is also a meeting point for local viticulture. Not far away is the Fattoria di Piazzano, a winery nestled in the hills of Empoli. With a production that highlights Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Malvasia, Piazzano is an example of the balance between innovation and respect for tradition. The estate’s red wines, elegant and structured, convey the deepest essence of the territory.
Not far from Empoli is Montelupo Fiorentino, a Renaissance village known for being a center of centuries-old ceramic tradition; a visit to the Ceramics Museum is recommended for those also interested in artistic and manufacturing traditions.
Vinci: in the footsteps of Leonardo, between art and vineyards
The village of Vinci, famous for being the birthplace of Leonardo, is also a treasure trove of wine delights. The hills surrounding the town host numerous wineries producing wines classified under the Chianti DOCG designation, particularly in the Chianti Montalbano subzone. The soil, rich in stone fragments, and the favorable microclimate allow for the production of vibrant and long-lived red wines. In Vinci, it is possible to visit the Leonardian Museum, located in the Guidi Counts’ Castle, where some of his inventions are reproduced, both in scale and full size. In the surroundings of Vinci, in Anchiano, one can visit Leonardo’s birthplace. This stop allows visitors to simultaneously enjoy and experience art, science, landscape, and wine. Moving towards Piccaratico, we find another charming corner of the Tuscan landscape. Here, vineyards alternate with woods and olive groves, in an agricultural mosaic that enchants. The small family-run farms in the area are custodians of farming knowledge passed down through generations, such as the Tenuta di Piccaratico, where we can taste the Chianti Montalbano DOCG and IGT Toscana, both elegant with strong territorial notes, and visit the historic winery. Not far from Vinci is Cerreto Guidi, with its majestic Medici Villa, a UNESCO heritage site, and its vine-covered hills. Here too, viticulture takes center stage, with wineries known for their attention to detail and focus on sustainability. The area is perfect for outdoor tastings, surrounded by untouched countryside, the scent of the scrub, and the song of cicadas. We recommend Tenuta Poggio Primo, which, with an organic approach and a contemporary vision, offers IGT Toscana wines, Chianti DOCG, rosé, and white wines, and Azienda Agricola Colle Adimari, which offers Chianti DOCG, IGT Toscana red wines, whites, and rosés that are intense and well-structured, perfect to savor at sunset on the hills of Cerreto in the wine bar with local products.
Towards Pisa: between history and vineyards
Continuing along the FI-PI-LI towards the province of Pisa, the landscape becomes more open, yet no less captivating. The winemaking vocation of this part of Tuscany is evident in estates that are able to highlight both traditional varieties (Sangiovese, Trebbiano Toscano, Vermentino) and international ones such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Among the hills of Pisa, establishments like the wineries of Monte Pisano and Valdera stand out, combining modern techniques with ancient knowledge. The mineral whites and full-bodied reds from this area are now appreciated even beyond regional borders, helping to give a new identity to Pisan wine.
The road leads us towards San Miniato, a village with a medieval historic center and from whose fortress, the Rocca di Federico II, you can admire superb panoramic views. The area of San Miniato is renowned for the production of the precious white truffle, which we could enjoy by stopping at the Ristorante Il Convio, savoring typical Tuscan dishes immersed in nature.
A journey to be experienced slowly
Although the FI-PI-LI is a road designed for speed, the best advice is to slow down. Take the exits at the right points, get lost among the country roads, stop at a winery, talk to the producers, savor a glass of wine while looking at the vineyards it comes from. This is the real journey.
Each exit tells a different story, but they all have a common thread: the passion for the land and for wine, the beauty of the Tuscan landscapes, the cultural richness of a territory that still knows how to move those who traverse it.
The FI-PI-LI, often simply considered a fast-moving highway, is instead an invisible thread that stitches together the soul of Tuscany: from the fragrant vineyards of Empoli to the hills of Vinci, all the way to the elegant tranquility of San Miniato. A journey to be experienced not only by car, but with all senses awakened: the taste for fine wines, the sight for harmonious landscapes, and the mind open to culture and beauty.
